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KMID : 1145120180160020179
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Asian Journal of Beauty and Cosmetology
2018 Volume.16 No. 2 p.179 ~ p.190
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Efficacy of Cosmetic Materials Using Aronia melanocarpa Leaf Extracts
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Lee Jung-Min
Ryu Min-Jeong
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Abstract
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Purpose: To determine the anti-oxidant, whitening, anti-inflammatory and collagen synthesis effects of Aronia melanocarpa (A. melanocarpa) leaf extracts for use as cosmetic ingredients.
Method: Ethanol and hot water leaf extracts of A. melanocarpa were used as test samples. Total polyphenol and flavonoid contents of the leaf extracts were quantified. The anti-oxidant activity of leaf extracts was measured using the 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radical scavenging assay. The whitening effect of leaf extracts was measured in the mouse melanoma cell line B16F10. The inhibitory effect of leaf extracts on the production of nitric oxide (NO) was measured using lipopolysaccharide (LPS)-stimulated RAW 264.7 mouse macrophages. The amount of procollagen synthesized with and without leaf extracts was measured in human dermal fibroblasts (HDF) using ELISA.
Results: The total polyphenol contents in the ethanol and hot water leaf extracts of A. melanocarpa were 167.46±1.03 μg/mL and 79.04±1.01 μg/mL, respectively, and the total flavonoid contents were 105.15±1.22 μg/mL and 52.21±1.13 μg/mL, respectively. The DPPH radical scavenging effect of ethanol extracts was higher than that of hot water extracts. In the mouse melanoma cell line B16F10, the tyrosinase inhibitory activity and melanin inhibition rate using 100 μg/mL ethanol extracts and 100 μg/mL hot water extracts were 21% and 24%, 18% and 18%, respectively. The tyrosinase inhibitory activity and melanin inhibition induced by α-melanocytestimulating hormone (α-MSH) were higher in ethanol extracts than in hot water extracts. The anti-inflammatory effect of ethanol extracts, measured as the inhibition of NO production in LPS-stimulated RAW 264.7 mouse macrophages, was higher than that of hot water extracts. Procollagen synthesis was lower than the positive control group due to the respective 58% and 41% increases in procollagen synthesis with the concentration of 200 μg/mL.
Conclusion: Data showed that A. melanocarpa leaf extracts isolated using ethanol exhibited higher anti-oxidant, whitening, antiinflammatory, and collagen synthesis effects than those isolated using hot water. Thus, ethanol leaf extracts can be considered as a candidate for use as ingredients in cosmetic products.
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KEYWORD
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Aronia melanocarpa, Anti-oxidant, Cosmetics, Whitening, Anti-inflammatory
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